Gurgaon to Dholavira (Road to Heaven) on Two Wheels Versys 650

ROUTE and RIDER.com >  Featuring Motorcycle Rider Shivanshu Aggarwal and his motorcycle trip to the edge of the Rann of Kutch on a Versys 650.

Get the ultimate rider’s blueprint for Dholavira, covering everything from two-up suspension tuning and gear management to the best sunrise photography spots on the "Road to Heaven." This guide breaks down essential costs, fuel efficiency, and local culinary secrets to ensure your salt flat expedition is as smooth as the Kutch tarmac.

Some rides test your machine. Some tests your patience. And a few quietly test your planning skills.
Our January ride from Gurgaon to Dholavira—my wife and I on our Kawasaki Versys 650—was all three. If you’re planning this route, here’s a rider-first breakdown: routes, stays, what to avoid, and how to enjoy the legendary Road to Heaven without burning yourself out.

Why Dholavira?

Dholavira sits on the edge of the Great Rann of Kutch, famous for surreal white landscapes, vast skies, and roads that seem designed for motorcyclists. Winter (Dec–Feb) is peak season thanks to pleasant daytime temperatures and the Rann Utsav—great vibes, but also crowded if you don’t plan ahead.

Day-by-Day Route Breakdown

Day 1 – Gurgaon to Pali (23 Jan)

Distance: ~575 km
Ride time: ~11 hours
Start: 8:00 AM | End: 7:10 PM

We rolled out of Gurgaon and immediately rode into rain and cold—classic North India winter surprise. Light rain followed us till Neemrana, where we stopped at a dhaba (restaurant).

Why we chose X that works for riders:

• Barista coffee ☕

• Clean washrooms

• Easy parking

• Perfect warm-up stop in cold weather

From there, it was smooth sailing via Jaipur bypass → Ajmer bypass, with short stretches and hydration breaks. We skipped lunch to maintain momentum and checked into Hotel Mount Pleasant, Pali by evening—simple, rider-friendly, and well-timed for a long day.

Day 2 – Pali to Dholavira (24 Jan)

Distance: ~500 km
Ride time: ~10 hours
Start: 6:45 AM

The roads after Ajmer were a pure joy—open highways, flowing curves, and that relaxed Rajasthan rhythm.

Route lesson (important):
At Sirohi, Google Maps pushed us onto State Highway 27 instead of the Abu Road (NH). Big mistake.

• Speed breakers every 2–3 km

• Villages throughout

• Mentally exhausting

Pro tip: Take the Abu Road (National Highway) even if it shows a few extra kilometers. Same ETA, far better ride.

We reached the outskirts of Dholavira around 3:30 PM, touching the first stretch of the iconic Road to Heaven.

Accommodation challenge:
Because of the long weekend + Rann of Kutch festival, finding a room without prior booking was tough. After some hunting, we found a decent stay at ~₹5,000/night.

After unloading and resting for an hour, we headed back out around 5 PM to ride the main stretch of Road to Heaven and catch the sunset—an unforgettable moment with endless salt flats glowing gold.

Day 3 – Dholavira to Beawar (25 Jan)

Distance: ~630 km
Ride time: ~9 hours
Start: 11:00 AM

Two consecutive long days catch up fast. We slept in and planned a realistic exit day.

This time, we stuck to the Abu Road (NH) all the way to Beawar:

• Longer on paper

• No breakers

• No constant village slow-downs

• Much less fatigue

We reached Beawar by 8 PM and called it a night.

Day 4 – Beawar to Gurgaon (26 Jan)

Distance: ~450 km
Ride time: ~9 hours
Start: 8:00 AM

Republic Day threw a curveball. Near Kotputli, trucks were barred from entering Delhi, causing a massive jam. We lost nearly an hour, crawling between trucks and sometimes riding the gravel shoulder.

Patience (and balance) paid off—we rolled into Gurgaon by 5 PM, tired but smiling.

RIDER INSIGHTS

- - - 🛠 Technical & Gear Insights - - -

The Machine & Setup The Versys 650 handled the route with ease, proving why it's a premier mile-muncher. However, riding two-up with luggage requires a bit of math. I opted for a stiffer suspension setup to compensate for the pillion and gear weight, which significantly improved handling on the Rajasthan highways.

Luggage for Two Managing gear for two people for a 4-day trip is a space-management puzzle. We utilized:

• Brand X soft side bags and a Brand X top box for the bulk of our 4-day gear.
• A tank bag for miscellaneous "on-the-go" items.
• Brand X crash protector bags specifically for carrying our winter and rain liners.
  

Pillion Perspective Comfort is a forte for the V650, and my wife was comfortable throughout the journey. One minor tip for pillions: the repetitive climbing on and off the high back seat can cause leg fatigue/pain toward the end of a long trip. Pro Gear Tip: Winter and rain liners are absolute essentials. Don't leave home without them, as winter rain at highway speeds is brutal.

- - - The "ROAD to HEAVEN" Specifics - - -

Timing the Perfect Shot Everyone wants that "perfect" shot, but timing is everything. There are actually two distinct stretches of the Road to Heaven: one optimized for sunrise and one for sunset. Plan to ride both ends of the day for the best lighting.

The Terrain: While the road is pure tarmac, the edges offer some variety. There are wide shoulders along the road, making it safe to pull over and take pictures without obstructing traffic. For those feeling adventurous, there are small trails leading to higher points on Dholavira island, though they can be tricky. I attempted one with a solo rider on a 310GS, but we eventually had to turn back after losing the trail.

- - - 🍽 Cultural & Culinary Stops - - -

Local Flavor: Skip the commercial dhabas; the real magic is in the homestays. Most include home-cooked traditional vegetarian meals. Must try: Bajra roti and khichdi served with homemade cow-milk ghee. Caution: Avoid newer dhabas on this route. An upset stomach is the last thing you want on a long-distance ride.

- - - 💰 Budget & Planning (The "Value" Data) - - -

Category	Cost (Approx)	Notes
Fuel	₹10,000	For a 2200km total distance
Food & Lodging	₹16,000	Mid-range stays and meals
Total	₹26,000	For two people

Fuel Efficiency: The Versys 650 delivered a steady 22 kmpl while riding two-up. While fuel was available throughout the route, the Versys' 21-liter tank was a blessing, eliminating the need for frequent, time-consuming stops.

Pics Credits & Ride Inputs: Shivanshu on Instagram
 https://www.instagram.com/aggarwal_shivanshu/

Collaboration Author: Ted King